Do oxide layers need to be removed before welding or coating?

Yes, in almost all practical cases, oxide layers (heat tint, mill scale, cutting scale, or rust) must be removed before welding or coating carbon steel. Leaving them in place causes serious defects.Here’s a clear breakdown by process:Welding,metal deburring machine




































 
Type of Oxide
 
Must Be Removed?
 
Why / Consequences if Not Removed
 
Heavy black cutting scale (oxy-fuel/plasma)
 
YES – 100 %
 
Prevents fusion, causes porosity, lack of fusion, wormholes, cracking
 
Colored heat tint (straw → blue) from plasma/laser/oxy-fuel
 
YES
 
Thin oxides (especially blue Fe₃O₄) are very stable, act as a barrier, and cause lack of sidewall fusion and porosity
 
Light straw/yellow tint (very thin)
 
Usually yes
 
Still reduces weld quality; most codes require removal
 
Mill scale (from hot rolling)
 
YES
 
High risk of porosity, cracking (hydrogen from moisture trapped under scale), and lack of fusion
 
Light surface rust
 
Usually yes
 
If flaky or pitted → remove; tight light rust is sometimes tolerated in SMAW/GMAW, but not recommended





Industry standards that require removal



      • AWS D1.1 (Structural Steel): “Mill scale that can withstand vigorous wire brushing… may remain.” → In practice, most fabricators grind it off anyway. Heat tint and cutting scale do NOT withstand wire brushing → must be removed.




 



      • ASME Section IX / B31.3 (pressure piping): Oxide must be removed from bevel and adjacent surfaces.




 



      • ISO 9606 / EN 1011: Same requirement for all critical welds.





Best practice for clean welds

Grind or power-brush the cut edge and at least 25–50 mm (1–2 in) on both sides back to bright metal. Stainless steel brushes or flap discs are preferred (avoid contamination).Coating / Painting





























 
Type of Oxide
 
Must Be Removed?
 
Required Surface Prep Standard (Typical)
 
Heavy cutting scale
 
YES
 
SSPC-SP 10 / Sa 2½ – all scale and tint removed
 
Heat tint (colors)
 
YES
 
Same – tint counts as “tightly adherent mill scale” and prevents paint adhesion
 
Mill scale
 
YES
 
SSPC-SP 6 or better for most systems; primer will fail prematurely if left
 
Light rust
 
Usually yes
 
SP 3 power-tool or SP 10 if coating warranty is required

Heat tint is especially problematic for high-performance coatings (epoxy, polyurethane, zinc-rich primers) because the oxide layer is glassy, non-porous, and chemically inert → paint peels off in sheets.Exceptions (very rare) deburring machine

 






      • Some self-shielded FCAW wires (e.g., Lincoln NR-232, Hobart Fabshield) tolerate light mill scale and very light rust.




 



      • Temporary welds or non-critical farm repairs sometimes ignore light rust.




 

Bottom lineFor any weld or coating that must last or meet code:
Remove ALL heat tint, cutting scale, mill scale, and rust back to bright metal.
It only takes a few minutes with an angle grinder or flap disc and saves expensive failures later.



 
deburring machine for laser cutting

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